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You may be
considering debt consolidation
but, frankly, not know a whole
lot about it. The fact is debt
consolidation is a great way to
help navigate yourself out of
debt problems—for some people,
in some circumstances. To find
out if debt consolidation might
be for you, you need to know the
basics.
First of all,
debt consolidation is different
than debt relief and it’s
different than bankruptcy.
Bankruptcy is a legal action
that wipes out your debt (and
ruins your credit). Debt relief
is an organized approach to
working with your creditors to
get them to settle your debts
for less than you actually owe
them. Neither one of those
things is debt consolidation.
Debt
consolidation involves finding
some sort of vehicle (loan,
refinancing a mortgage, line of
credit) which you use to
re-arrange your debt. The idea
is that if you owe $50,000 in 18
smaller debts (for example, a
student loan, some credit cards,
an in-store finance plan for a
computer, etc.), you borrow
$50,000 to pay off the loans.
That solves the problem of 18
small debts, but at a price. Now
you have one jumbo loan to pay
off. But if you do debt
consolidation wisely, your big
loan can offer you better terms
and a lower interest rate
(overall) than your collection
of small loans.
If you get a debt
consolidation loan (which may be
a normal loan or may be a line
of credit), they come in two
main flavors: secured and
unsecured. A secured loan is
“secured” by some sort of
collateral. You agree when you
sign the loan that if you do not
pay, the creditor can seize your
assets. The classic secured loan
is a mortgage on a house. If you
have a mortgage, you have agreed
in a legal document that
if you fail to pay according to
the terms of the mortgage, the
lender can foreclose on the
house, meaning that they take
over ownership.
You can also
secure loans with bank accounts,
brokerage accounts, and other
forms of property. The beauty of
a secured loan is that they are
pretty easy to get and you can
often get a low interest rate.
After all, the risk is pretty
low for the lender. Either you
pay (lender wins) or you default
and he gets your stuff (lender
wins). Most lenders prefer to
get your money rather than your
property, but either way, they
have security.
A loan is
unsecured when the lender has no
such collateral. In fact, the
lender really does not have any
recourse if you don’t pay him
back, other than the usual
avenues of collection agencies,
legal action, and putting a
black mark on your credit. The
most common unsecured loan is a
credit card.
If your debt
consolidation program involves a
loan, find out from your lender
whether it is “secured” or
“unsecured.” If you don’t own
much property or have anything
of value, your loan will be
“unsecured.” Know that interest
rates are higher for unsecured
loan and people with little or
no credit history or bad credit
may not qualify for them.
If you own a
house, your debt consolidation
representative will probably
talk to you about two good
approaches to debt
consolidation. One is called a
“refinance” which involves
refinancing your existing
mortgage. You basically go back
to the original lender or find a
new lender and get a new
mortgage. This can be
particularly beneficial if you
can refinance your loan at a
lower interest rate (that is,
your original mortgage has a
higher interest rate than you
can get today).
When talking to a
debt consolidation expert about
refinancing, you need to find
out what kind of terms you’re
getting on your new mortgage
(interest rate, how many years
you’ll be paying it off, terms
of the mortgage) and what your
new monthly payment is. You’ll
end up with some money in your
hand. That’s the money you use
to pay off your debts. You are
left with just a new mortgage.
If things work out relatively
well, your new mortgage payment
will be lower than the sum of
your old mortgage payment plus
the debts you paid off. The
result: one payment, total
reduction in monthly outflow, no
harm to your good name (that is,
your credit report is
unblemished).
A refinancing
deal on the first mortgage of a
house can often get you the best
interest rate and the best
overall arrangement of any debt
consolidation option. The
downside is not everyone
qualifies for this (you need a
house, first of all) and the
other potential downside is that
it tends to “hide” your debt.
Let’s say you need to pay off
$50,000 in debts. So you
refinance your house and end up
with $50,000 in cash. Your new
mortgage is a 30-year mortgage
at 7% and that extra $50,000
really isn’t all that noticeable
because you’re paying it off
over three decades and your new
interest rate is a bit lower
than your original loan.
If you end up
refinancing (particularly if you
can re-arrange your debt very
well), you need to be very
careful not to just go out and
get more debt.
Some refinancing
options will have you signing up
for an adjustable rate mortgage.
This is a mortgage whose
interest rate is based on
prevailing market trends. If the
rate goes up, you pay more
interest; if the rate goes down,
you pay less. There should be
caps or maximums and minimums on
these interest rates, and you
need to know them. Sometimes you
can get a pretty good deal on an
adjustable rate loan, but
beware; that rate can change. As
a general rule, lenders like
adjustable rate mortgages when
interest rates are low because
it still gives them a chance to
get higher interest at some
point in the future. When the
prevailing interest rate is
already pretty high, most
lenders are more eager to lock
you into a fixed rate loan so
that they can get the higher
interest rate for the full
thirty years.
Ask also about
other mortgage options, if they
might work for you. For
instance, you can get mortgages
that can be paid over 10, 15, or
20 years instead of the usual
30.
If you have a
mortgage and pretty decent
credit, you can also do some
refinancing shopping. You may
have more options than you
realize! Start with your current
lender, since that can help you
reduce paperwork but don’t be
afraid to look at other mortgage
companies. A mortgage broker is
a person who works with many
mortgage lenders; a broker can
give you a good overview of
refinancing deals. Use the web
and ask somebody at your bank,
too.
If you use this
as a chance to clean up your
act, start saving money, paying
off your bills, getting your
credit back in order, and
working on a budget, this kind
of debt consolidation is the
best thing going. And if your
debt happened because your
family suffered a medical
catastrophe or endured some
emergency, it can be the most
sensible way out. The danger
with refinancing is that you
forget that you’re paying for
your debts over 30 years. (And
if your debt includes payments
on the sofa in your living room,
the running shoes in your
closet, and the vacation you
just took to Europe, that means
you will not have paid them off
for 30 years! That sofa is going
to be decades in the dump before
you pay it off!)
So don’t try to
go the refinancing debt
consolidation route without
working with a certified credit
counselor and having a game plan
(and some discipline). It’s one
of the best ways out of debt,
but it’s also one of the easiest
forms of debt consolidation to
come undone.
Another approach
to debt consolidation involves a
home equity loan. You can only
qualify for a home equity loan
if you own a home that is worth
significantly more than you owe
on it. For instance, if you just
bought a $180,000 house with
zero down and property values
have dipped slightly since you
took ownership, you have
virtually no equity. You owe
pretty much what the house is
worth.
But let’s say you
bought a $180,000 house ten
years ago with a decent down
payment and, for this example,
let’s say you are holding a
mortgage on that property for
$140,000. Now let’s say that the
housing market in your area has
appreciated to the point that,
even conservatively estimated,
your house is worth about
$240,000 if you were to put it
up for sale. Since the fair
value of your house is $240,000
and you still owe $140,000 on
it, your “equity” is $100,000.
Equity increases if property
value goes up or if you pay the
mortgage down, and it really
jumps when both happen.
Some debt
consolidation organizations will
lend you money based on the
equity in your home. This is a
form of secured loan and it does
not involve having to refinance
your mortgage. It’s a separate
loan.
When approaching
debt consolidation, first of
all, check out your options
online and in person. Don’t be
afraid to start asking
questions. Most rich people ask
financial questions of financial
people all of the time! If you
have a bank you like, ask to
talk to somebody at your bank
about debt consolidation. You
should absolutely seek out a
certified credit counselor. You
can also talk to mortgage
lenders and debt consolidation
companies.
Don't try to
figure out all of this stuff by
yourself; there's no enough time
for you to become the kind of
expert you need! Take advantage
of the pros. They're all over.
Make sure you
understand the terms of any
loans or plans these people
suggest. Ask what the payments
will be, how long they will
last, and what the interest
rates are. Ask if loans are
secured or unsecured. Find out
any special terms. Be sure you
understand what, if anything,
might affect your credit report.
Last but not
least, ask yourself if you’re
really ready to get control of
your finances. If you
consolidate your debts but just
go out and make more debts,
you’ll not be any better off
next year than you are now. In
fact, you may dig yourself in
deeper. You should only try debt
consolidation when you’re
serious.
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